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Family: Sydney to Hobart

From Ed and Candice go Down Under in Sydney, Australia on Mar 01 '09

Ed and Candice has visited no places in Sydney
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They didn't waste any time. Barely five and half months had passed and Mum, Dad and Charlie were already coming to visit us in Sydney. We couldn't wait to have them to stay, and show them around. Which is why, within two hours of landing, we were headed for Bondi beach. May as well start with the cliches.

For the next four days we cruised around the city, seeing the sights we had already started taking for granted. We walked through the botanical gardens to the Opera House, where Candice and Mum later went to see the opera (while the boys went to the outdoor cinema - Frost/Nixon v Madam Butterfly, hmm..). We took a boat through to Darling Harbour and a trip to the National Maritime Museum, something of a busman's holiday for Dad. Another day we walked from Bondi to Bronte beach, we had $10 steak at our local, the Trinity. It was a great four days.

The sea was at the end of our road, as were the golf course, the RSL pub, and the pier for fishing - it was pretty idyllic.

Soon though, they were off to Melbourne to see Jim, and on to the Great Ocean Road. But after Mardi Gras and Coldplay (see next entry!), it wasn't long before we were boarding a plane to Hobart for a family reunion in Tasmania.

We'd heard it was remote, and you only have to look a map to realise just how much so. When our mobiles lost reception 10 minutes outside the capital - and still an hour and half from Swansea, our hometown for the next week - we knew we were headed for the middle of nowhere.

Which was what we were after. Swansea is an old port in Great Oyster Bay, about halfway up the east coast of Tasmania. The house was classic Australian. White clapboard walls, big windows that flooded the house with sunshine, a log fire, and of course, a dunny in the garden. The sea was at the end of our road, as were the golf course, the RSL pub, and the pier for fishing. It was pretty idyllic.

Fishing became a nightly ritual. Ed had high hopes after catching a trout in New Zealand and spent a little more on his rod than Jimmy. Didn't make any difference. Dad provided a starter one evening after catching a salmon with Jim's rod, while Jim went on to catch plenty, including hooking two cod at once. Ed, on the other hand, went home empty handed.

The nine hole golf course was less frustrating, although the first where the groundsman encourages you to play after turning on the greens' sprinklers. It was the site of Candice's first golf swing. We did warn her about embarking on the long, painful road of bashing a small white ball round a large park, but she seems hooked. Sydney's driving ranges beckon.

Tasmania is fast becoming a major destination for gourmandes, with dairy farmers producing world-renowned cheeses, oysters aplenty, cherries and, of course, cool climate wines. The latter proved a fun way to spend an afternoon as we sampled the local produce from the small number of wineries near Swansea. The winefarm with the cheeriest sommelier got our top vote, and we went back time and again for the rest of the week to stock up - no more Jacobs Creek for us salubrious lot! We also bought jams from Kate's Berry farm and fresh oysters near Coles Bay which David shucked for us.

A definite highlight was a five-hour hike over to Wineglass Bay, named for its shape, and edged with a blue blue sea. We enjoyed unusally clement weather for an otherwise stormy island. The swim was pretty fresh, but the walk kept us warm. There were even wallabies on the beach.

Another day was spent visiting Port Arthur, Australia's most infamous convict colony. Many of the buildings have fallen or been destroyed, but there's enough there to get a sense of how horrible it would have been. You can even lock yourself in the solitary confinement cell where no-one can hear you scream, and people spent up to three weeks.

We spent our last sweltering day wandering around the capital. Hobart is a sweet little city, with a beautiful harbour where we had fish and chips overlooking the boats. We also parted with some cash at the famous Salamander market before Jim headed back to Melbourne, and we left for Sydney. Back in the big smoke we squeezed in one more swim and brunch at Coogee beach, but then it was a tearful goodbye as Mum, Dad and Charlie headed back to Blighty. What a great three weeks.


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