Busman's Holiday on the Isle of Man
From England, Wales and the Isle of Man in Douglas, Isle of Man on Jul 03 '07
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The U.K. considers the Isle of Man an integral part of the Kingdom. The people of Manx, however, don't fully share the concept! They have their owns stamps (which can only be used mailing from the island), their own currency (fully exchangeable with the British pound, but Manx currency cannot be used in the rest of the U.K.), and their own smoking laws (smoking still allowed in pubs whereas it had just been banned in England - and already banned in Scotland and Wales).
They also have the most integrated and multi-modal transportation system I've ever seen - catamarans and ferries connecting the island with England, Northern Ireland, Ireland and France; horse-drawn trams (really!!!) linking the ferry terminal with the electric trolley route to the north); aforementioned electric trolley route running north from Douglas to Ramsey (90 minutes each way); a mountain trolley (the Snaefell Mountain tram); a steam-powered railroad going from the south side of Douglas to the southwest corner of the Island (60 minutes each way); and an extensive double-decker bus system linking everything else. (And an airport in case you want to get away to the Spanish Balerics' quickly!!).
When the tram reach the top though, the summit was fully socked-in by a cold, moist fog with about 10-foot visibility.
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In the two days that I spent in Manx world, I managed to ride all of the above transportation modes (well, except for the flight to the Balerics!) - thankfully they sell a day pass good on all of these modes - pricey though it is (12 pounds or $24 US). Still seemed a good deal. I arrived on a bank holiday - Manx independence day - not a lot of British officials in view! - and headed west across the island by bus to the coastal town of Peel (probably didn't need to add the adjective "coastal" since just about anyplace that's anyplace on the Isle is on the coast!). A lovely harbor, sandy beach (alas, wet sand given the weather), prominent castle ruin, a Viking Festival, fresh Manx ice cream, and a pub or two. I managed to check out all of the above in the couple of hours I spend there, though much of that time was spent out of the ever-worsening rain in the pub - drats! (not really my sentiment!)
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The next day, I hopped aboard the horse-drawn tram and headed up to the north end of the Douglas promenade and boarded the electric tram to Ramsey. Hugging the east coast of Man for much of its alignment, the tram opened upon lovely vistas of the coast, reminescent of the coasts of Scotland or Ireland. A quick walk around Ramsey followed, then reboarding the tram for its southbound journey. I hopped off at Laxey, had a quick lunch at a local cafe, and then caught the Snaefell mountain tram to the mountain top. When I boarded the sun was finally shining. When the tram reach the top though, the summit was fully socked-in by a cold, moist fog with about 10-foot visibility. Thirty-minutes passed rather slowly before the next tram headed back down to the coast and the connecting tram back to Douglas.
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Not content yet to call it a day, I reboarded the horse-drawn tram and headed to the south end of town, walked a few blocks and boarded the steam train to Port Erin. A no-doubt lovely beach town when the sun is out, it was instead bathed in gray with barely a soul in site. Since I had caught the last steam train of the day out of Douglas, I caught a bus back to Douglas and a late dinner at my hotel.
The next morning, it was off to the ferry terminal, a 2 1/2 hour crossing to Liverpool, and a train to Manchester airport where I met my wife and daughter and began the next leg of our Euro journey.
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